Thursday, May 22, 2014

Coaster Hub Overhaul (Pedal Brake Hub)

Coaster Hub Overhaul (Pedal Brake Hub)

Typical Tools and Supplies Needed:
Cone wrenches. 15mm commonly required.
Wrenches for axle nuts
Bench vise
Straight blade screwdriver
Park Tool axle and pedal vise AV-1 or AV-4
Grease, Park Tool Polylube® 1000
Solvent, such as ChainBrite® CB-2

This article with discuss the basic bearing service of coaster-brake hubs. This is also referred to as a "back pedaling brake." The hub contains internal brake shoes housed inside a metal shell. A clutch mechanism allows the hub to engage and drive the bike foward. The clutch then disengages for coasting or braking. Rotating the pedals backwards expands the brake shoes into the steel hub in order to slow the bike. These types are of hubs are not considered "high performance", and are limited in their ability to stop the bike.

This vid show´s the system working:

A basic coaster hub is seen below. As the bicycle is pedalled forward, the sprocket turns the driver into the clutch. The clutch end is serrated with sharp teeth and these literally jam into the hub shell, turning the shell and wheel forward. When the pedals stop turning, the clutch pulls away from the hub shell. If the pedals are moved backwards, the clutch pushes into the brake shoes. The shoes are pushed outward into the shell. As the shoes drag against the shell, they attempt to turn the left side cone. There is a long brake arm that is fixed against the frame of the bike to prevent the left cone from turning. There can be a substantial amount of friction inside the shell. It is important to grease the shoes, bearings, and all internal parts. Generally, use grease capable of higher temperatures.

The procedure for coaster brake disassembly is as follows:
Begin by loosening brake arm stop screw to free arm from frame.
Remove wheel from from bike and remove axle nuts and washers from axle.
Note axle protusion on both left and side. Measure and record axle protusion off left side. This allows the axle to be quickly centered during reassembly.

If available, use axle vise to hold wheel with right side upward.
Remove the sprocket. Use narrow tipped straight blade screwdriver to remove a snap ring holding the sprocket.

Note orientation of sprocket if it is asymetrical. By flipping the sprocket, it will move in or out from the hub, which will effect alignment to the front sprocket.

Hold cone with cone wrench. Loosen and remove locknut. It will be useful to lay part out in orientation as they come off axle and out of hub.
Remove cone and turn driver counter-clockwise to remove it from the shell.

Lift off wheel from axle assembly. Use care, as the brake shoe or other parts may fall out.

Turn axle asssemble over in the vise. Hold the brake arm as a lever, and use a wrench on the left side nut. Loosen locknut, and all parts from the axle.

Remove spring from inside clutch for better cleaning. Always rotate spring with direction of spring wrap. In this case, turn spring clockwise while pulling and twisting outward.

Remove any parts from inside hub shell.
Clean all parts in a solvnet such as CB-2 Citrus ChainBrite.

Parts Inspection

Inspect parts after cleaning. The brake shoes have machined ribs, and with use these will become smooth and polished, reducing their effectiveness. In the image below, notice the edges of the shoe are just beginning to show wear.

The cluth jams into the hub shell to drive the bike. With use the knurling on the end of the clutch will become worn and smooth. This will cause the pedals to go further around before the clutch finally engages and drives the wheel.

The Procedure for Coaster Brake Assembly and Adjustment is as Follows:

Re-assemble clutch. Grease spring, place washer inside clutch, and turn spring into place. Turn with spring wrap direction (clockwise).
Grease axle threads of axle.

Install left side cone on axle. Pack grease inside cage of bearings. Install bearings on cone. Ball bearings face cone surface.

Hold axle in vise and install dust cap, brake arm, any washers, and locknut. Adjust thread engagement until axle protrudes as in Step 3 in disassembly. Hold brake arm as a lever and fully secure left locknut.
Remove axle from axle vise. Grease outside of clutch and place clutch inside shell from left side. Spring should face left side.
Grease brake shoes and place inside shell.

Notice studs on cone of axle assembly. These will go between the two brake shoes. The spring end will engage inside cone. Place assembly through hub shell. Rotate until cone seats into hub shell.
Hold axle assembly and turn wheel over. Mount in vise with right side up.
Grease all other bearings.
Please bearing into hub shell and install driver.
Install bearing inside driver and thread on cone and locknut.
Adjust bearings. Turn cone down until just touch bearings, then turn back counter-clockwise 45-degrees. Hold cone and secure locknut. Grab rim and pull to check for play. Make adjustment in small increments until play is gone. Note these are generally lower precision parts, and a "smooth" adjustment may not be possible. A slight amount of play may be necessary.
Install sprocket, noting orientation if offset. Use thin bladed screwdriver to engage snap ring into driver.

Install wheel into bike and adjust chain tension.
It is critical that the brake arm be properly secure, as seen below.

Wednesday, April 23, 2014

New twitter and facebook page

Hello dear, like most people pages, we decided to join the ad of 140 characters, we leave our new twitter to follow us and see latest news, tutorials, and explanations straight from there.
The site is in spanish but if you ask in english we can answer your question.


best regards.

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Bikes and Motored Bikes in Buenos Aires exposition

Hi everybody we take this pictures in a exposition in Buenos Aires, If you want to see more photos you can Suscribe to our website or like to the facebook page:


how to make a homemade led light for your motorized bike

Hello dear readers , in this post I 'll teach you how to operate a LED lights 100 % made ​​by you on your moped , with or without dynamo :
Let's start the list of materials:
                    -16 White high brightness LEDs ( home electronics )
                    -4 Diodes 1N4007 or equivalent ( house electronica)
                    -1 1000uF 16v electrolytic capacitor
                    -1 50 ohm resistor 1/2 watt
                    -Cable 0.25mm long to election, more than two meters insurance depends on your BM
                    - One or use the dynamo generator engine failing
                    - One welder and tin
                    - Plate for electronic design , can be epoxy or fiber can buy that is already perforated plate or virgin :
                                    a) if they buy the perforated plate saves buy the acid ( ferric perchloride , the role of thermal Domain Transfer saves , but it is a little ugly if we would do the most professional way , but it is easier .
                                    b ) if they choose to do the hard way will need :
                                             ferrous - ferric chloride (comes in a bottle , is an acid , beware )
                                             - Paper thermal transfer or an indelible marker
                                             - A plate to transfer the pattern of the thermal paper to the transfer plate .
                                             - Laser printer or copier.
                                             - Cheeser and 1mm wick

Once we decided to do and we have all the materials we start with :

1) we print the design on paper thermal transfer , read well on paper which side to print not to break the printer, because if you put the other way around the paper has a resin that can damage your machine.

design is as follows ( do not print this picture , and they will go out of range , now leave the link where I should download ) :
                        board                                                        front view

pdf file:
https://mega.co.nz/ #! gVUD3KSJ! D4Br6kNrktXltU9gnF4ZnGNT_-M6tJ0WpE4odKxwKrM 

2) Once you print the pdf and this came to scale, must pass the drawing sheet to the plate with an iron should be at a temperature of around 100 ° C, if they are going in the cotton picker mode. I leave a video to learn how to do it:

3) After that must happen to chemical attack by ferric perchloride, I leave a video of that too: 
Do not need to water bath, but this accelerates the process a lot

4) After that we do all the holes in the plate with the wick of 1mm and a drill, they should do very carefully to avoid breaking the plate is simple, holes are marked, do not think I need to explain this . 

5) After holing palaca should proceed to put all the components in the following way, as shown in the image recueren the long leg of the LED and the capacitor is the positive, always respect the positions of the image must be placing of one and welding it with tin and an electric welder, the first thing that is resistance welded, then the diodes, leds and then finally the capacitor:

6) Once all placed and welded two wires should be soldered to the islands, or terminals that are between each diode, these are the inputs from the generator or from the black and white wire motor, the position is irrelevant, since this board has voltage rectifier and filter, which will allow the LEDs do not blink or burn. 

7) Then can give a box of plastic to keep it dry, and do with pedasoz tambienpueden mirror or aluminum foil plates that reflect light from the LEDs to focus more and concentrate light. 


How to disassemble the clutch of a motored bike

I remove the entire clutch only making a small hole with a drill and soft shocks I was giving up and leaving the gear followed put a tube in the shaft and went back to give soft shocks until it falls just to the side of the pinion for me was super easy way to do it and only lost time with the drill, go spinning gear for the beats do come out uniformly well I hope I paresca them practical and easy to do and step you can replace pinion, grease, change bearings.

you can see the fast process here:

Greetings to all

Sunday, September 22, 2013

new facebook page

Hello readers, I create a Facebook page to improve contact between us, podre answer faster and you will be able to follow my blog and learn reading when you upload something new.

Thursday, September 19, 2013

50cc motorized bicycle engine Exploded view

Here we have an eploded view of a generic 49cc motor two stroke, if you have to assemble this is the diagram.

best regards

Tuesday, September 17, 2013

I´m looking administrators for the blog

Hello readers, I'm looking for my blog administrators, since I started to improve and seen that exceed the 90 daily visits and growing, sometimes I fail to answer comments or delay a bit because I'm studying, let alone make publications , so I need someone to help me, the person to help me receive a 10% of the profits generated by my blog (if it does the job), I mean that technically we will be partners as they will put adsense because the previous company (SOICOS) not pay me and I owe a sum of money and you do not answer my messages.
 who is interested can ask me a question over here and then will specify by email, you must have knowledge of Motorized bicycles and their engines, even if minimal, must also publish two articles per week, if they have good ideas and do well on 10 % may increase.

Friday, July 26, 2013

change of cylinder, piston, rings and gaskets

I will soon upload a video on how to change a cylinder with piston and other boards, and I got the parts.

Tuesday, July 9, 2013

I can not believe what I read, watch this

the things said today on our engines, people who talk without knowing anything and think that by criticizing someone or something as an environmentalist, these people are very wrong, please spend some time and read this:

Today was seeking information about the Motorized bicycles, for a change, and to publish something interesting for the readers of my blog, when I read this note from a facebook page, which is very wrong, where virtually debase and insult the Motorized bicycles with the assumption view that pollute more than any car. look at the article:


when I saw it I thought, "there is no shame that I do not like button", the best thing I could think to do was take it out with a comment long somewhat like this:
"Whoever wrote this does not know anything, he is ignorant, and it shows that never kayaked or motorized bicycle, or bicycle, first of all the pollution that is a lie, let me explain that the problems of unburned gasoline and that you say a lie can only occur when there is a bad carburetor, what good is this engine, is precisely how efficient it is in both gasoline consumption, imagine how much they consume other cars, besides you Are you a vision closed, as 4-stroke engines rely on valves, which to withstand pressures and temperatures of the engine are made of special metals, such as titanium possessing different alloys, many of these valve metals are extracted from mines, which explodes and contaminates lot more of which generate these motors also are exploited as African people for example, and this engine is 2-stroke has no valves, one is based on a simple construction and some metals aluminum cost, which do not generate problems in mines, and aluminum is number one material that can be recycled, so fijate carefully before speaking and you against something, or make a smear campaign, first you have to know, if you do not know do not talk!!! !! "

then I read the reviews and I came across one that said this:
"They are dangerous for the uses (brake failure, emission of toxic gases, risk of electric shock, poor weight distribution) and pedestrians who see them as something harmless but a stroke of these devices gets to kill. Cicloaxion never has supported this type of vehicles and prohibits censorship and its outputs, so is our commitment and act so "

I could not believe that people so ingenuous to believe these things to be discussed, how anyone can electrocute with a motorized bicycle? if the cdi does not get to throw anything, the current is despicable, the only thing that can happen is to give you a little shock, and all the things he says on consumption per liter of gasoline is not much time. for example, I have a motorized bicycle, which according to the strip 3.5 kg / km of pollutant when in a conventional car have 4 liters of oil, about two liters of acids and high in lead, which are not reusable materials without of which is built the engine of a car, for example titanium and many metal alloys that come out clearly from the mining and aluminum recycling as our engines, made almost 90% of aluminum, also would have to have model changes and the cars that go to desguasadero, with Motorized bicycles thing does not happen, well, I hope you is interested in this post, I think we have to defend our engines 2t and say what we think, thank you very much to all.